Here the food was not rice and curry. It was fusion – Sri Lanka meet Thailand mostly and plenty of fresh seafood. You could eat ice cream without a care and leave the ice in your drink with no fear. You could almost say it was bland, but after two weeks of varying degrees of fire, something less potent was welcome. We were the first guests to rise on Christmas morning and breakfasted alone watching the waves. The only indication that this was a date different to any other being a small glass with flowers in and a slice of Panettone each in addition to the exquisite pancakes with banana, honey and yoghurt. Any celebrations there were going to be had taken place, unbeknownst to us, on Christmas Eve, but Christmas Day is a public holiday and as such was a ‘dry’ day. A discreet notice told us no alcohol would be served.

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